Insights into Corneotherapy and Skincare: A Conversation with Rachel Robertson, Founder of Prologic

Chemical peels, unlike proteolytic enzymes, are keratolytic, meaning they loosen the bonds that hold skin cells in place. These peels involve applying a chemical compound to the skin, often more acidic than the skin’s natural barrier. Some, like Trichloroacetic acid (TCA), can be corrosive if not used with expertise.

Chemical peels are categorized by their depth of penetration:
Superficial depth peels
Remove epidermal layers without going beyond the basal layer.
Medium depth peels
Penetrate the epidermis and reach the upper dermal layers.
Deep peels
Reach the mid-reticular dermis.

Peels not only remove the skin's first three lines of defense but are also typically synthetic and incompatible with the skin’s metabolic functions. Some peels can be comedolytic, which exacerbates the destruction of intercellular lipids, leading to post-treatment dryness and a slow recovery of the barrier defense system. Given their potential to disrupt cellular connections and communication, most chemical peels are considered more destructive than beneficial.

- Chemical Peels by International Corneotherapy Association